120 rescuers from 5 organizations attempt to rescue a fallen climber in winter conditions. Several rescuers needed to be rescued as well. Climber , (Me) died twice during rescue.Presentation is a talk and slideshow if a winter rescue, where a helicopter should have been used, but was not. this resulted in an 8 hour carryout through mountain terrain. The story is told from the climbers perspective. I was climber, who fell from 45M cliff, but wedged 1/2 way down rock face. Extensive medical injuries, 6 broken vertebrae, open Iliac fractures, pelvic fracture, broken arm, sternum, ribs, face, teeth, tension pnumothorax etc. Decision was made that it was a body recovery, so no air evec was used, however I came back to life. In fact I was conscious for entire rescue. I returned to terrain the rescuers, this resulted in multiple changes in rescue protocol for organizations involved.